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Are you ready for professional grade vehicle management? I'm talking about controlling fuel and ignition right down to the cylinder level on as many as 10 cylinders. Reading paddle shifters and electronically shifting transmissions. Driving single or even dual drive-by-wire throttle bodies. Controlling boost, injecting water-methanol, and running multiple stages of progressive nitrous--all without add-on controllers. Having up to 79 advanced inputs and outputs at your control. That's Holley Dominator EFI. I recognize that the ignition control part of an EFI system can be the most intimidating part of the entire project. The purpose of this article is to drill down just a little into the igntion wiring for the Holley Terminator and Holley Sniper EFI Systems, comparing these two it a bit more detail than I've seen done elsewhere. That is why it cannot control ignition timing using the the GM Small Cap HEI or Ford TFI ignition. It can, however, be used to control the timing on a fixed-advance distributor provided that the rotor phasing is correctly advanced. What works best for you will depend on product availability for your application as well as your budget not to mention your ability to deal with frustration. The cost and ease of installation alone make this a no-brainer. The HyperSpark operates with the Sniper EFI System identically to the Dual-Sync distributor mentioned below but costs 33% less and requires no adapter harness. Like any of the Sniper ignition timing control options it requires either a coil driver module or an ignition box but the next big plus in favor of the HyperSpark distributor is the availability of the HyperSpark Ignition Box and HyperSpark Coil. When installed together these three combine to make wiring this almost too easy. Three wires must be terminated but the rest of the system is plug-and-play with Metri Pack Connectors and two ring terminals for power and ground. As for all of the stuff below about rotating the engine to 50 degrees before TDC and this and that to get the rotor phasing correct--HyperSpark Distributor installers get a pass. The kit includes a rotor phasing cap that holds the rotor precisely where is must be relative to the base of the distributor. You simply drop the distributor in place, lock it down, and install spark plug wires. But I fully expect Holly to release a robust line of different applications before they call their work in this area complete. Here is a wiring diagram showing the installation of the complete HyperSpark ignition including the distributor and optinoally-available ignition box and coil: Sniper Ignition Wiring with Holley Hyperspark Distributor Note that the your Sniper EFI System must be running Handheld firmware 1. If you use the Sniper EFI Software to configure your HyperSpark ignition you must use version 1. No lock-out procedure or rotor phasing kit is necessary and the installation is greatly simplified via a adapter cable that connects the Holley EFI distributor's 10-pin connector to the Sniper 2-pin crank signal connector. Just like when using an MSD distributor with the Sniper, the included coil driver module or a CD box must be used. These two images show each without and with a CD box: Sniper Ignition Wiring with Holley Distributor, without CD Box Sniper Ignition Wiring with Holley Distributor, with CD Box MSD 6A Shown Here's a great video detailing the setup of the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor with the Shiper EFI System. I highly recommend using the Holley dual-sync distributor instead. Yes, I know that many of you come into this relationship already having an suitable MSD distributor. I encourage you to carefully consider the costs. Some customers are struggling with RFI problems that seem to be introduced by the magnetic pickup. This has nothing to do with MSD--it's just the nature of a magnetic pickup in a high-RFI environment. It works flawlessly triggering a battle-hardened ignition system but when connected to more sensitive electronics it leaves the potential for issues. The Holley DSD, on the other hand, uses a hall effect pickup which simply doesn't struggle with the same issues as a magnetic pickup. Plus the Holley DSD is much easier to set up in the first place. That stated, an MSD distributor can be used to perform ECU-controlled timing with the Sniper ECU. Both mechanical and vacuum advance must be locked out and a must be installed and adjusted accurately. With the advance locked out, the rotor phasing kit allows you to manually set the position of the rotor to the correct location. This can be done with or without a capacitive discharge box. Just like when using the points output with the Terminator, a coil driver module must be used between the ECU Points output and the COIL - if a CD box is not used. If you choose the MSD distributor route for doing Sniper ECU-controlled, timing, I do have some suggestions. You will need to tune these values. Some have found that 0. Note that if you increase the MSV too high then it will have trouble detecting any signal when cranking. If the above suggestions do not eliminiate the RF interference problem, another user I know went back to the original non-adjustable rotor. It sort of defies logic why this works but he claims it did the trick for him and I'm sure he's right. Be aware that this makes an already somewhat arduous process of setting the timing even more of a challenge as you have to now use the distributor position to compensate for spark angle at maximum torque. I would absolutely consider this a last resort and only consider it if the paragraph above does not solve the problem. These next two wiring diagrams show how to conduct ECU timing control with an MSD distributor both with and without a CD Box: Sniper Ignition Wiring with MSD Distributor, without CD Box Sniper Ignition Wiring with MSD Distributor, With CD Box MSD 6A Shown Watch this video for detailed instructions on how to setup an MSD Pro-Billet Distributor for use with the Sniper EFI System. There is one other method that has worked for some folks. That is to use a GM Large Cap HEI distributor. Compared to the first two methods this requires significantly more engineering, so proceed completely as your own risk. We know this does work, and it can save you a few hundred bucks, but I still believe that the large majority of folks out there are better served to use the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor. This method requires that you get a GM Large Cap HEI distributor with the 4-pin module in it. GM offered these wtih 4-, 5-, and 7-pin modules. It is entirely likely that the 5- and 7- pin versions can be used as well but that is beyond the scope of this article. The 4-pin module has connectors labled B, C, W, and G. This is the power for the module. You're not actually using the module, you are just picking up the signals you need at these points. Also, as implied above, you need to use the coil driver module. Connect the other wires as shown in the previous examples. In addition to this, you need to lock out the mechanical and vacuum advance as is done in the MSD method, above. Rather than use some sort of rotor phasing kit, you just set the rotor phasing when you lock out the vacuum advance. As I said, this is a bit of a hack so that's part of the adventure. Update: Recently, Ian of TurboCamaro. CA created this AMAZING VIDEO of his success setting up the GM Large Cap HEI distributor to do Sniper EFI System ignition control. This is a 30-minute video that is FULL of details. It is on a 6-cylinder version of the large cap HEI but it should work as well for the 8-cylinder version. It should not be surprising that wiring the Terminator EFI System to control ignition timing using the Points Output signat is very similar to doing so on the Sniper. Like with the Sniper, the white Points Output wire is used to ground the coil through either the Holley Coil Driver Module PN or a capacitive ignition box like the HyperSpark or MSD 6EFI and distributed using the Holley HyperSpark Disstributor or Holley Dual-Sync Distributor. Nothing beats it for plug-and-play simplicity. We offer a harness PN that reduces the number of manual terminations to two--the same as on the Sniper. It is a +5V square wave trigger that is used to drive an HEI ignition module. Because of that, it can be used to control timing on a GM Small Cap HEI or Ford TFI distributor. The distributor produces a points output that sinks the current from the coil, initiating the spark at the timing determined by the ECU. Terminator Ignition Wiring Without CD Box GM Distributor Shown A couple notes about the diagram above. Shown is the GM small cap HEI distributor installation. See the Terminator instruction manual for Ford TFI example. Signals A-K represent the 10-pin ignition connector on the Terminator main harness. Note that while the adapter harness carries the cam signal from the distributor to the ignition connector on the Terminator main harness, Holley does not populate that pin with a wire back to the ECU. If a capacitive discharge ignition box is used, then the points output generated by the electronically-controlled distributor will trigger the box to produce the spark ad the ECU-determined timing. Terminator Ignition Wiring with CD Box MSD 6A Shown Handy Ignition Check Tip Ignitions Triggered with White Points Output Recognize that whenever the white points wire is grounded the ignition should throw a spark. Knowing that, you can follow these steps to do a quick sanity check on your ignition. Replace the distributor cap. Get set up to observe spark. Safety considerations apply here, of course. Each time you do you should observe a spark on the cylinder identified above. Conclusion I hope that this article has helped to show that, once you understand some of the basics the different ignition configurations for the Holley Terminator and Sniper are not all that complicated. I would love to hear your comments or questions, so please post them below. I generally respond within one business day. By that I mean originally I wired for a standard points system and since moved to a mag distributor and want the sniper to control timing. There is no information about color and placement that I can find. I have been on infinite hold trying to get the information and gave up. So I decided to post on the forum thinking that they would chime in but instead I got the usual 'call tech support'. Could you post a pic of both plugs showing color and location on the plugs. I would think it would useful information. Now, you already have a connector, but on that page are a picture of the connector as well as a list of the various signals and the pin letter into which they go. If you look very closely at the connector there should be a letter on each pin. Between that and the picture you should have everything you need to be successful. Ken says he reloaded the setup a couple of times and the problem went away and everything runs great now. If you've had any experience with this please do add your comments! But you stated that the camshaft signal doesn't go to the ECU from that point. So how does the ECU get that signal then? Is it needed to control the timing? I have the main coil unit, a slave solenoid for the starter, and a 50 amp breaker that is wired to the slave solenoid and the starter. Do I need to keep these relays? I'm afraid that I don't know enough about your specific setup to start suggesting what to start yanking. However, I will leave you with the advice an old friend gave me when I was building my first stock-class circle-track race car. I asked him what I should disconnect as far as emissions controls, etc. When you finally yank something and the car won't start, put it back on. Hooked up to holley efi fuel tank system, all new Msd ignition. All wiring hooked up just like it is shown for no timing control. Set up wizard check. Crank signal and all gauges on LCD display function and read well. But no fire when cranking it over. Did not hook up yellow coil wire. And used supplied purple grey wire to tach put out off Msd box. It is a very easy trap to fall into--but just as easy to recover from. This is a good case in point. Nothing indicates a problem of the Sniper EFI system. You are receiving the crank signal and it is displaying RPM. And I suspect it will start just fine as soon as you resolve the problem in your non-EFI controlled ignition system. Note too that all of the drawings in this post are for Sniper EFI-controlled ignition timing, so you can't follow these to wire your ignition. If you have done that as it seems you have then the problem is in the new MSD ignition you installed. That is a bit outside the scope of this blog so I'd recommend you contact the vendor or MSD to get some assistance on resolving the problem. It answered a little about how the system is designed to work. I'm still confused on one thing you said.. Which means if you like your existing ignition system you can keep it. It was my impression that the only time you could retain the stock ignition is if it were from an non-EFI car that didn't rely on the same sensors used by the Sniper ECU. I am putting my sniper on a 1999 4. Can I use the existing stock ECU to control the ignition via coil packs and use the sniper just to control the fuel side- and in doing this would I still retain the OBD-II functionality- or would all the inputs being robbed from the stock ECU and sent to the sniper mess up the stock ECU making it throw codes all the time? I should have stated that is provided you have a stand-alone ignition as is the case on most carbureted engines. For those like yourself who might install the Sniper EFI System on an engine with an existing ECU-controlled ignition you are either going to have to figure a way to keep the stock ignition working quite possibly doable, though I don't have the experience to confirm this or else you'll have to retrograde to a stand-alone ignition. Will be using an Edelbrock Performer dual-plane intake 2151. In the next few weeks will be buying a Holley Terminator EFI 550-406 and a Holley Dual-Sync distributor 565-106. Can I purchase a coil driver module instead of a separate CD MSD 6A box to signal the coil? Note: This will be the initial startup of this motor. Holley made the decision up-front to simplify this decision by including the coil driver module in every Sniper EFI Kit. So you can go with either the MSD Box or just use the included coil driver, as you prefer! I would go on to say that I don't usually recommend doing both the fuel and ignition setup at once on the Sniper EFI System. If you don't have any choice then don't worry, it is doable. The challenge is that if you run into any issues you have to really be on your troubleshooting A-Game. On the other hand, if you have any basic distributor-based ignition system that you can use to get the car running then that usually simplifies things a good bit. Either way, if you buy it here I'll be eager to help you every step of the way. As explained in the Terminator Ignition Wiring section above, the points output required for ECU-controlled ignition timing comes directly from the Terminator ECU. Since the ECU cannot sink the high current blasts that would come from the coil on every spark an interface is required.. When wired up with the MSD box, the MSD box takes that responsibility. In the absence of the MSD box, that's what the coil driver module does. But Im not sure how to connect the crank signal wiring purple and green wires to my Msd distributor. The Holley instruction only shows two wires from the distrubitor and there are no tags on them, only colors that dosn't match my distributor. The attached picture showes the wiring as it is on my car now. Yes, the MSD distributor is one of the two options for doing timing control on a Sniper EFI System but not all MSD distributors are included in that. Unfortunately, the ready-to-run distributors will not work for this purpose. The distributors that work are usually called the MSD Pro-Billet distributors. If you look at them you will see they have the same 2-wire connector that will mate to the green-purple harness on the Sniper EFI System. Use your best judgement and do what seems right for you. I'll provide my assistance either way you go. On my initial try, it ran for a few seconds and died. On subsequent attempts it started backfiring in all directions; out the exhaust, through the throttle body, and through the crank case, sending my PCV valve and breather cap into orbit. I attempted to set the static timing to 15 degrees, and that resulted in an instant backfire out the exhaust. When I stop cranking, it will run for a second and just stumble out. If I try to give it some throttle, the stumbles and backfires persist. I have followed and verified the installation and setup instructions for the dual-sync. Pulled 1 plug to verify I was on the compression stroke. Plug did not appear to be wet. I have 3 pink wires distributor adapter, coil driver and the pink from the 7-pin going to 12v ignition, and a separate 12v ignition going to the coil. The gray wire from the coil driver is going to the - of an ACCEL DFI 75607 coil. The white wire on the 10-pin goes to the white wire of the coil driver, black from coil driver is directly attached to the battery -. The main + and - are going directly to the battery posts. The initial setup screen on the display checks out OK. When cranking it takes a second to sync with the distributor and an RPM signal is seen on the display. I have a Walbro in-tank fuel pump with the recommended Holley fuel filter in place. The fuel feed is on the drivers side, the return is coming out of the regulated side of the throttle body unit. Second--backfiring through the crankcase? I'm not sure how that happens unless you've blown a hole in the top of a piston. You might want to do some compression checks to make sure that's not the case. Ok, trying to produce something of value here for you. Let's start by narrowing the focus. Backfires are not caused by the fueling system. This is a timing issue. If the engine ran previously then you can furhter narrow it to an ignition timing issue. Let's go forward with that assumption. You've not yet seen this new video from Holley. I am saying that with some certainty since it was only posted 2 hours ago as I write this. This is a fantastic video, even better that the video they had posted earlier. Have a look at this. In your case, pay special attention to the tips for confirming the wiring and syncronization that Tom provides at the 13:00 mark. Hopefully this video provides you with some new ideas. Let me know how this works for you. Or is there a benefit to having the module remain that I don't understand? I can find information about phasing a regular rotor, but nothing clear diagrams or pictures showing the wiring. Are you really sure you need to do Sniper EFI-controlled ignition right now? Here's the reason I'm asking. Doing Sniper EFI timing control with a magnetic reluctor pickup as are found in the GM HEI is filled with potential pitfalls, even when using the recommended MSD Pro-Billet distributor. So much so that we no longer recommend it as is stated above. To then add to the potential problems and challenges inherent to doing something completely different? Not a road I would take or recommend. Further, if your existing ignition is working well, I would suggest that there is nothing that you will add by switching to Sniper EFI-controlled ignition timing that could possibly be worth the nightmare you are about to experience. Yes, there are some big benefits to Sniper EFI-controlled ignition timing. But not as big as the self-induced pain you are about to feel. Instead, let me humbly recommend that you start setting aside the funds to get set up with a Holley Dual-Sync distributor for your application. Yes, that's even a few dollars more than the MSD route. But it is tried and proven to be a trouble-free installation. The MSD route in this case is also tried and proven--to be not worth the effort by most who make the considerable effort. Unfortunately my build isn't as cookie cutter as most. I've built up a 4. I've just had total timing low but I'd like to have full control. Right now it has a 4 pin module and magnetic pickup in a large cap HEI. As far as I know, Holley isn't making a dual sync for my application. Perhaps I'm over simplifying it, but isn't the pro billet just a fancy gutted small cap HEI that's easily locked out? If that's the case, I can easily lock and wire my large cap HEI the way you suggested above. If it isn't phased, I'll adjust the vac advance lockout using a clear cap or cap with sight holes. I guess I just don't understand the modified HEI method limitations or possible complications. Is it the pickup that's different? Any light you can shed on this would be great. That being the case, there are a couple of very challenging keys to success. Personally, I would not only lock out the distributor but would gut the magnetic pickup entirely and install a hall-effect pickup but you're starting to run into a bit of money again. If you want to try to stick with the magnetic pickup then make sure the wires are tightly twisted and you might even consider shielding them. Then, be sure to adjust your minimum signal voltage and filtering as discussed above. But, the bigger challenge is making sure that the rotor contact is at the spark tower during the duration of your advance curve. This confounds folks that even have the advantage of a phaseable rotor. Without it, you are really going to have your hands full. But it sounds like you are aware of the challenges and I think you have a shot at making it work. Good luck--you're going to need it! First, recognize that the Holley instruction manuals are greatly simplified, as is my article above, when it comes to the vast number of ignition options available in any given situation. This is necessary because if one tried to detail all of the different ways to implement the ignition on a given EFI system it would simply be more confusing than helpful. The Terminator ignition options above use the SPOUT signal to trigger the ignition. Remember that the Terminator also has a points output just like the Sniper. That means that any ignition you can implement with the Sniper can also be implemented with the Termaintor. Of course, at this point you bump up against the fact that we don't recommend using an MSD Pro-Billet distributor to implement timing control on the Sniper, though it is listed as an option. While getting the rotor phased correctely is still an issue with the Terminator it is not as sensitive to RFI as the Sniper ECU so that half of the problem goes away. And remember that there are even more options. If you download the you will find that you can implement a magnetic crank trigger section 8. If you use the and the then you can implement a coil-per-plug ignition on your Buick 455. The sky is the limit! I was wondering how many people have successfully made this work? I am in Australia and want to run a Australian Ford 4. I want to run Sniper for simplicity and aesthetics. I managed to find an after market 4 barrel manifold to suit. Reading on your forum that Sniper can not control timing using a TFI Dizzy ,panic is slowly setting inn! So if you were able to find an ignition system for your Ford 4. Now, if you are relegated to using the TFI ignition that came with your factory EFI then you still might have a chance of it working, but it might require that you leave your factory ECU in place. The ECU should not care that there are no injectors firing but not having somethings like the throttle position sensor in place may create issues. There is only one way to find out: Try it! Leave absolutely as much in place as possible when installing the Sniper and see if you still get spark when you crank. I have ordered a Sniper kit with the Master installation kit. I also have the Holley Dual Sync distributor ordered. As I'm reviewing installation instructions and watching videos, it appears that by removing my original distributor, 1980 Corvette, 350 SBC... The Holley EFI kit includes a new coil control module, but... Do I need to buy a new coil and what would you recommend? That's what it looks like right this moment.... Thanks for your input! I expect that you're going to find both increased performance and economy which are both generally in short supply in RV's! However, I think you're in for an exercise in frustration if you try to use your existing ignition to do EFI-controlled ignition timing which will be critical to getting the performance and economy you seek. While I am not that familiar with Chrysler ignitions, I am not aware of a way to easily adjust the rotor so that it is going to be indexed with the spark tower at the time of the spark. As mentioned above, even those who have the MSD distributor and the available rotor phasing kit have enough problems that I simply no longer recommend it for most. Let me be careful not to imply that ECU-controlled ignition timing with your existing ignition is not possible. When it comes to ignitions there are so very many different things that can be done that it is entirely likely that there is a way to make this work. But two things I do know. First, I can't tell you how so I'd be a blind guide. Second I can tell you the great frustration that folks have had trying to make this work using factory ignitions. Instead, I'd recommend that you go ahead and expand your budget to include the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor. Along with this you will need a good coil see the post above and the Sniper-to-Dual-Sync Adapter. Installing this is much more of a slam dunk. I don't think of anyone that has failed in this effort. It is absolutely the route I'd suggest. Im looking a the Sniper system and it says you cannot use a small cap Gm Hei. Can I use the small cap Gm HEI if I pull the timing control module out of the distributor and just use the mag pickup already in it. It is prephased at 20 deg from the factory. Then use the it as the crank trigger and use the Holley coil input to drive the stock coil. I suspect you know that but I just wanted to make sure that was clear up front. Yes, certain very specific constraints need to be met. Yes, those constraints are met much more easily with some ignition setups like the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor than with others. Beyond just accuracy in both of these requirements you must also ensure adequate signal strength and prevent the creation of RFI. That is where it gets a bit tricky. So while I can cheer your ingenuity and sincerely hope the best for you, neither would I endorse using the small-cap hei distributor if you want your Sniper ECU to control ignition timing. Since you're still in the homework phase, I would add that if you have an electronically-controlled transmission in your '95, that is going to be another challenge you will face. It can be done, but you will have to find a way to feed either the factory ECU or an aftermarket controller with the throttle position. Those who have tried to do this by splitting it off of the Sniper EFI TPS have not had good results. But adding a TPS is not too terribly difficult. Regardless of what type if ignition you have, if it is working well for you before you install your Sniper EFI System it will continue to work well after the system is installed. The important thing to note is that if you're not doing ignition timing you only want to use the yellow wire to Coil - if you don't have a capacitive discharge box like an MSD box. If you do have an MSD box, don't use the yellow wire on Coil - --you'll damage your Sniper EFI System. Instead, use the included purple wire adapter and hook it to the tach output of the MSD box. A separate brown wire is included that allows you to get your tach signal from the Sniper ECU if one is currently connected to the tach output on the MSD box. Used GM small Cap from DUI and have msd box. Timing is synced but system keeps making me second guess the sync. Set cruise timing at say 43 and when your actually cruising you'll see more like 33 on controller. While cruising if I watch close I'll see timing go to wot but tps is at say 55. I keep second guessing timing sync being right. Just don't seem right. But the reality is much more complex. While it is easy to determine when the engine is idle that is primarily a function of throttle position , determining where cruise transitions to WOT is very engine-specific and has less to do with the specific throttle position than you might think. You have to think of it in old school terms. The mechanical advance is merely a function of RPM. So that can be easily simulated. But the vacuum advance disappearing as you transition to WOT is determined by the manifold pressure. The manifold pressure cruising in a vehicle with a big engine with a mild camshaft very low is much different from that on a smaller engine with an aggressive camshaft much higher. If you feel that the resulting ignition timing is losing the vacuum advance portion too early, then you're going to have to go beyond using the basic spark setting and use the 2-dimensional table that is accessible via the software. The beauty of this is that you can theoretically use that table to nail down an absolutely amazing timing curve that could never be achieved with weights and vacuum. Of course, that often requires the services of an expert tuner with a dyno, but it is generally well worth the cost and effort. If so, what all would I need other than that? I feel like I am missing something here. Anyways, my main goal is a smooth idle and a system that plays well with the Sniper. This is a heavy boy 69 Impala that does not see high RPMs regularly, but does good burn outs when needed. Where there is a will plus brilliant troubleshooting techniques and tons of patience there is generally a way. That said, it's unlikely that anyone is going to convince me that with the Sniper there is a better way to go than the dual-sync distributor. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about doing things in a cost effective way and am always looking for the best bang-for-your-buck. But, in this case, that best bang is the dual-sync distributor. If you want to go another route then I think that my article, above, provides enough basic direction to get you on the right path. Some have done this well. Others, including some very bright mechanical minds, have spent countless hours trying to implement other solutions only to give up in frustration. Where there is a will there is a way. Some ways are much more painful than others, however. The reason that Holley officially supports the MSD Pro-Billet Distributor as one of the approved methods of implementing ECU-controlled ignition timing is because MSD offers a phaseable rotor that works with most of these distributors. Accel does not have such a rotor so even more cumbersome methods must be undertaken to get the rotor phased correctly. I would not let your Sniper EFI Upgrade plans get put off track by the ignition issue, however. Keep in mind, the Sniper will work great with your existing ignition. In fact, as I always suggest, install the Sniper as a fuel injection-only system first, then upgrade to ECU-controlled ignition timing if you choose to do so. And, at that point, I'd still recommend the Dual-Sync distributor instead. I know there are devices that produce a mechanical tach driver from an electronic signal on the market. Others have replace the tachometer Some even resorting to disassembly an aftermarket electronic tachometer and mounting it behind the factory gauge face plate. I am researching installing the Sniper on my 1977 Jeep AMC 304. I currently have a CRT Performance large cap HEI billet distributor that works great. As per your suggestion I intend to initially get the sniper unit up and running without timing control. Then moving to the MSD distributor later to implement timing control. For the CRT Performance distributor looking at the connections on this distributor I have a tach out and a power to the incap coil. My question is which wires from the sniper unit do I connect to these two connections? And, are there any other changes needed to the distributor? Provided that you don't have a CD box like an MSD 6 there is only one wire you need to connect at this point between the Sniper EFI System and the Distributor. Connect the yellow wire from the 7-pin harness to the tach out and you are done. If you have a tachometer that is already connected to that tach out signal, you need to disconnect it there at the distributor and then get your tach signal from the brown wire on the 10-pin hareness. If you happen to have a CD box then don't use the yellow wire. Use the purple wire with the included extension wire and connect that not to the distributor tach out but to the tach out on the CD box. Again, if there is a tach wire already using that signal, redirect it to the brown tach out from the Sniper. Holley makes a coil driver module through which the Terminator ECU can drive the coil - without hurting the ECU output. You can find the coil driver module. This is most commonly used with the Sniper EFI System but it works equally well with any ignition setup where you need to use the ECU's points output to drive the Coil - but don't want to use an MSD box to isolate the ECU from the coil. Install the dual sync distributor just like Tom does in the first video at the bottom of. The dual-sync 10-pin connector will simply plug into the 10-pin ignition harness that is available on the universal non-LS Specific Terminator EFI systems. The Coil Driver Module has 4 wires. The gray wire will be connected to Coil -. The coil driver module is very small an inconspicuous and can easily be hidden out of view. This should work well for you. I noted the drop in price for the Dual Sync, but I'm even more interested in the HyperSpark. I see no need for the Dual Sync's cam position information for a TBI, so I'd like to go with the HyperSpark since the ECU can be triggered by its Hall Effect sensor.
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